Andrew’s Top Tips on… buying Outdoor Footwear
Buying outdoor footwear is often a daunting task as nowadays there is such a wide range of options, both in quality and price categories. And how do you know which ones fit best and do the job you want them for?
Here are a few of Andrew’s Top Tips
Why are you buying new footwear?
The first thing to consider when buying new outdoor footwear is what are you going to wear them for, ie, high mountain walks over loose, rocky terrain; or gentle, established and maintained paths. You might want to do a bit of scrambling, or trail running; or you might want to start winter walking with a view to climb easier grades. With experience, confidence and compromise, you could get by with more non-specific footwear for any of the types of walking listed above. However, the compromise gets bigger with the more extreme types of activity, ie winter climbing, trail running and scrambling. Using footwear which is not designed for the purpose it was intended may shorten the lifespan of the product or could also be quite dangerous.
For high level mountain walks over uneven and loose ground, you need a supportive and durable boot. By supportive, I mean the sole should be rigid enough to give your foot a stable platform without twisting too much. That doesn’t mean that the boot cannot be flexible but you also don’t want it so soft that you can feel the rocks through the sole. A higher cuff will also help to support and protect your ankle from twisting. A boot with a leather upper, either smooth, nubuck or suede will be more durable and supportive than a fabric upper. Unfortunately, it may well be heavier too (that’s the compromise). A rubber rand will help to protect the boot from scuffing too. This type of boot could also be used for scrambling and a boot with a crampon compatible sole unit (ie almost inflexible) is more suitable for winter walks. You may also find this type of boot better for ‘off piste’ trail walking. You could still use a lighter, fabric type boot for high level walks but these generally have more stitching (weak points) and the fabric part of the boot is less resistant to abrasion, which means they may not last as long as they should.
For more established, lower level footpaths, a lighter fabric and suede/leather boot is usually adequate. Depending on the type of terrain, a higher cuff will again give you more support. Also, a sole unit with an aggressive tread pattern will help to keep you upright on wet, grassy or muddy paths as the lugs bite into the ground. This really applies to all outdoor boots and shoes, although it can have an effect on the overall weight of the footwear. For very light walking, a trail shoe could be an option but remember that without the ankle support, you’ll be more vulnerable to injury so choose your terrain carefully unless you are very confident.
Waterproofing
The majority of outdoor footwear sold in the UK have some type of water proofing element to them, either in the form of coated, seam-sealed materials or internal membranes. If a boot or shoe is sold as ‘waterproof’, it has to reach the minimum British standard to be impermeable to water. As a rule of thumb, you will get what you pay for with waterproofing. The cheaper the product, generally the less time it will stay waterproof and by this I mean the length of time in any one given use as well as the overall lifespan of the product. Also, cheaper products tend to be less breathable than the more expensive options, so you may find your feet get warmer (waterproofing retains heat) and ‘moist’. This does not mean the footwear is leaking or that they aren’t breathable, just that the water vapour created by your warm feet has overwhelmed the material’s ability to allow the moisture to pass through it. This can also happen with more expensive materials but is really subjective as it depends on the person (more prone to sweaty feet!) and climate (ie, summer use).
Waterproofing can be made more effective by proper care, so keeping the footwear clean and water repellent by using one of the various proprietary waxes, sprays, creams or liquids is always recommended. Saturated material does not breath, so your feet will feel damp if the outside of the boot is sodden. Other causes of wet feet in waterproof boots and shoes include those with fabric cuffs being more prone to water ‘wicking’ over the top to make your feet wet. Too short waterproof over-trousers will catch on the top of your footwear, allowing water to run down into the cuff (gaiters, over the boots but under the over-trousers will help to prevent this).
Finally, footwear is no longer waterproof if the waterproof element has been damaged by puncturing it. If you get a stone or thorn in your boot, stop and take it out as soon as you can. Trim your toenails! Believe it or not, they will wear a hole in the front of your boot, particularly if the boots are a snug fit.
Fitting
Footwear manufacturers use a variety of types of measurement to express the size of their footwear. These should only ever be thought of as a guideline, not a definite size indication. The most common sizing indicators you’ll see in UK shops are UK (what we use in the UK), European (42, 43, 44, etc) and American (usually UK size plus one for men, plus two for women, ie, size 8 UK for men = size 9 US, size 7 UK for women = size 9 US). Also, as we get older, our feet can get bigger as arches collapse and we gain weight. That means although you were a size 6 when you were 2o years old, at age 50 you may actually be a size 7.
When trying on footwear, choose the type of boot or shoe appropriate for your needs and then try on as many different brands/models as you can, narrowing down to the best fit. Best fit means not too narrow, minimal heel lift and about 0.5cm – 1cm of space around the front of your toes (a simple way to determine this is to loosen off the laces and push your foot as far forward as it will go so that your toes are touching the front of the boot. Then, with your heel on the ground, bend your knee forward and try and get your finger down the back of the heel on the inside of the boot, down to the foot-bed. If you can’t or have to force it, the boot is too small and your toes will suffer on the downhill. If your finger is waggling around behind your heel, it’s too big). Always try to wear the socks you would normally wear for walking and never count on a boot ‘giving’, as it might not. If the boot stretches, you can always introduce a volume adjuster or thicker foot-bed to take out the slack. If a boot is too small, your stuck with it. If you have any doubts or niggles what-so-ever about your footwear, forget it and move on, as anything you may feel in the shop will be magnified on the hill and once the boots have been worn outside, they’re yours for keeps! Make sure there is no pinching or rubbing and at least walk around the shop a few times with the boots on and laced up. Some retailers will allow you to try your new boots around the house to make sure you’re happy with them and refund or exchange them if you’re not, but again, they must not be worn outside and must be in a re-sale-able condition with all packaging including the box if you want to do this.
Fair wear and tear
Nothing lasts for ever, especially footwear which is at the sharp end of use. Waterproofing will eventually fail. Leather will crack. Soles wear down. When, all depends on how much you use your footwear. At the premium end, the best quality components will be used in manufacture. When they fail, generally it’s because the product has been well used and that will show on inspection. If for example, you do a lot of road walking or rocky, mountain routes, the sole of your boot will wear down faster than if you do a lot of soft, grassy paths. If you do a lot of walking through farmland, or across peaty landscapes (ie the Peak District), you may find your leather boots start to crack across the flex points. This can be caused by acidic soil or animal muck, which dries the leather out. It can also be caused by forced drying (leaving your boots on the radiator or in a drying room) or over proofing them with a solvent based water repellent. Clean and proof your boots only when they get dirty or muddy. It is rare that the waterproofing element of your footwear will fail in both sides at the same time, usually one will go before the other.
A simple test to determine if you boots are leaking: let them dry thoroughly, take out the insole and remove the laces. Stuff paper towel or toilet paper into the boot, right to the toe. Put them upright into a sink or bowl of water, making sure the water level is not higher than the lowest point where water may come over the top. Weight the boots down so that they don’t float up and turn over. Leave for an hour or two. Take them out of the water and remove the paper – if it’s wet, your boots are leaking! If they are still within a manufacturing guarantee period, return them to the shop you bought them from.
A note about manufacturer’s guarantees: a shop is allowed a reasonable period of time to ensure the product is in fact, faulty. This usually entails sending them back to the manufacturer for testing, which normally takes no more than about two weeks. If the fault is confirmed, the manufacturer can choose to either replace the product or issue a credit to the retailer so that they can refund you. Unlike when a product which has been returned under your statutory rights, ie, the product has failed in an unreasonable time period or is not fit for purpose, in which case, you can ask the retailer for a refund, although they still have the right to confirm a fault.
Finally…
Read reviews, listen to a friends recommendation and take in the hype, but ultimately, a brand that works for one person may not be suitable for another. Fit is of key importance for outdoor footwear and it will make or break your enjoyment of your outdoor experience. Consider usage and try on as many boots as you can before buying.
This article is a reflection of my experience only and not necessarily of any suppliers I may deal with.
Enjoy the outdoors,
Andrew
Cader Idris Outdoor Gear 4 Crosby Buildings, Eldon Square Dolgellau LL40 1PS
